KATHMANDU: World record-holding Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, widely known as Nims Dai, has died after being caught in an avalanche on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, expedition organizers confirmed.
Purja was among 10 climbers reported missing after the avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Karakoram range on Thursday. His expedition company, Elite Exped, announced his death through a social media statement.
Of the 10 missing climbers, six were Nepali. Authorities had recovered the bodies of four climbers on Friday, while search efforts continued for the remaining victims.
The avalanche occurred around midday on Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain at 8,047 metres, one of the most technically demanding peaks among the world’s 8,000-metre mountains. Purja was leading the expedition team at the time of the disaster.
Purja rose to global prominence in 2019 after setting a world record by climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks in just over six months, dramatically shattering the previous record and earning worldwide recognition.
Who was Nirmal Purja?
Born in Myagdi and raised in Chitwan, Purja joined the British Army’s Gurkhas in 2003 at the age of 18, fulfilling a childhood ambition inspired by his father and brothers. According to his official website, he served 16 years in the military—six years with the Gurkhas and 10 years with the UK Special Boat Service (SBS), becoming the first Gurkha to join the elite special forces unit in 2009.
Despite his military career, Purja had no early connection to mountaineering. His passion for climbing began in 2012 after visiting Everest Base Camp while on leave from the SBS. Inspired by the experience, he trained with climbing guides and successfully summited Lobuche East (6,119 metres), marking the beginning of his mountaineering journey.
He later returned to military service as a cold-weather warfare specialist before resigning from the British Army to pursue professional mountaineering.
Purja’s achievements transformed him into one of the world’s most celebrated climbers. In 2019, he completed his historic ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders in just over six months, redefining the limits of high-altitude mountaineering.
In 2021, Purja was part of a 10-member all-Nepali team that made history by completing the first-ever winter ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest mountain. During the same period, climber David Goettler, who worked closely with Purja, also achieved the distinction of becoming the youngest person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders during the broader campaign.
